Haast – and
North
up the West Coast
The
Whitebaiters Ball if you are there in September/October is the place to
be. All the locals will be there and enjoying an evening of West Coast
hospitality. This is white bait heaven in South Westland where every
river has its banks lined this time of year with hardy folks with nets
doing their best to fill them with the whitebait (to non-Kiwis it is a
small fish considered a supreme delicacy) arriving from the ocean and
heading up the many rivers. Be sure to try a whitebait sandwich.
If you take
the road to Jackson’s Bay you will see some of the most elaborate huts
and traps along the rivers you can imagine. Heading north out of Hasst
and up the West Coast on Route 6 you turn inland through swamp and rain
forest with glimpses of the Tasman Sea here and there. It is more
beautiful than it sounds. A very special place indeed.
Sixteen
kilometres along at the Waitai River there is a large parking area as
well as parking along Ship Creek. At this point the road starts up a
hill where you will have a good outlook of the coastline. There are
good pullover spots for photos.
Another ten
kilometres is Knights Point Lookout and the first place to really stop
and enjoy the wild coastline of the area. Plenty of room to park with a
viewing platform and toilets. Commercial in appearance but still allows
one to enjoy a spectacular view.
From here
the road heads inland. Five kilometres along is Lake Moeraki. Several
good pull off locations to stop and enjoy the view. Good pull offs
after Boulder Creek and Cedar Creek.
18 kilometres
along is a good place to stay at the DoC Camp on Lake Paringa.
Beautiful lake where if you got a chance to cast a line for trout do
so. Mt. Kinnaird at 1227 metres overlooks the area.
10 kilometers
you find a salmon farm located at the edge of the Paringa River. You
might want to see the gigantic salmon swimming in the round pools
overlooked from the café.
On past is a
good stopping spot at Doughboy Creek and a picnic spot on the Mahitahi
River also. From this inland route now you head back toward the ocean
at Bruce Bay (14 kms). A small community is located there and a great
pull off area along the ocean. I remember my first experience with sand
flies here in ’89. If you trod the beach be sure you have repellant.
That’s true for the entire West Coast actually. You wonder why these
fabulous beaches aren’t covered with condos?
On through
Jacobs River where there is a place to park or picnic and across the
Karangarua River (21 kms from Bruce Bay). Here is one of the most well
known DoC tracks. Copland Track on the right. Take the short road to
the right to have a read about the place. If you are into tramping
check this out before you get here and make arrangements with DoC.
There is a toilet there. From here you enter flat farm land for the
next 27 kms to Fox Glacier. A short gravel road to the right takes you
to Fox Glacier parking area where a very short walk gains you access to
the glacier for a closeup look. The town of Fox Glacier is just a short
hop up the road north. Good coffee and food served at the Plateau
Café
& Bar in town.
The best
place on the coast to see the Southern Alps is down the Cooks Flat Road
that ends up at Gillespies Beach. At the end of the hard top road
before the gravel there is a stopping spot with the best view period if
the weather permits. This is on past the turnoff to Lake Matheson also
a place not to miss. If the weather is right do the walk around the
lake. Worth the time and a very easy walk. Get a photo at the
View of Views the one in all post cards of the area. Gillespies is 11
kms down the gravel road but is interesting for its history and offers
a place to park.
After the
exploration of this area lets head north for 23kms to the town of Franz
Josef Glacier. Just before entering the main part of town to the right
is a road just over the river that will take you to the foot of Franz
Josef Glacier. This is a must.
How many times in your life do you get to be that close to a glacier?
You may want to take advantage of the many activities in the area such
as a walk on the glacier, etc.
From here on
north where we encounter 16 kms of steep winding road. Be sure to check
your vehicle’s water before going on this trip. Spectacular views from
the heights though of the Waiho River and the many mountain peaks
inland. Several good pull offs for photos and views. Many creeks are
crossed with names probably of the early miners such as Kiwi Jack and
Smithy’s Creek.
Westland
National Park lies between the road and the ocean. Lake Mapourika is on
the left with a couple of good spots to park. Toilet available here and
picnic tables.
North end of lake is a giant parking area. Worth going out of Franz
Josef this short distance to stop. You also will pass Lake Wahapo with
also a place to pull off.
From Franz
Josef it is 30kms to Hokitika. Ten kms the road levels out and you will
be driving in a vast valley of farm land still going inland. 12km s you
come to the small community of Whataroa. There you will find one of the
most amazing Maori carvers and museum of Maori artifacts. It is hard to
believe in this far out place in the middle of nowhere. Don’t miss this
one the Kotuku Gallery.
Five more kms
on the Whataroa River on the right you will find a local has created an
interesting place known as a Tourist Recreation Area. If you got the
time check it out. It is different.
Now it’s a
climb up Mt. Hercules providing a view over the land to the sea on the
left with the Southern Alps still dominating the inland area. After the
climb the drive eases off to return to an easy flat valley between
montains and the town of Hari Hari. (14kms) A very large Wapiti(elk)
herd just before entering the town.
There is a
long one way bridge after Hari Hari. Eighteen kms is Lake Ianthe. A
1000 year old giant matai tree is on the right just before the lake.
You are now in the middle of the rain forest as never before. What an
area! The West Coast where rain forest, glaciers and the ocean are all
together unlike any other place in the world. There is a good stop at
Lake Ianthe and they provide a toilet.
Six more
kilometres is one of the most fascinating stops in New Zealand the town
of two people, Pukekura, where Possum Pete and partner offers great
hospitality at the bar, restaurant, café and provide a true West
Coast
museum with the live animals and a film on the early deer hunting days.
This is a must stop. They also provide hookups and a few
accommodations. We never pass this by without stopping.
Eighteen more
kms through the bush and you are back along the ocean for a brief
moment then on to the gold town of Ross. Stop and have a look at what
they have provided for those interested in the early gold mining days.
Grab some of the delicious local West Coast honey from the Waitani
Apiaries in the centre of the town.
Finally 20
kilometres on we come back to the ocean after Ruatapu. You can see the
dominate wind force by the tortured trees and bush along. One of the
best DoC camps on the right to stop is Lake Mahinapua. Plenty of space.
Not too far
now to Hokitika one of our favourite towns on the West Coast for
artists and craftsmen. Be sure to stop by. Good parking on the ocean
right in town. Good cafes and top shops for jade, and other fine works
of talented craftsmen.
The Shining Star Motor Camp on the north edge of town is our choice to
stay. Out of town 6 kms north is one of the handiest dump spots on the
left also. Along the way north you can see the sphagnum moss
businesses. Quite different. A side trip inland if you got the time is
a trip to Lake Kiniere. A couple of stopping spots available.
From Hokitika
to Greymouth the ocean is clearly visible but with no access. You will
travel over a one way bridge that is used by both car and train. North
of Hokitika 25 kms at Kumara Junction is the entry of Route 73 the road
to Arthurs Pass. Eighteen kms to Greymouth. Another train/car one way
bridge over the Taramakau River by the Hungry Trout Bar.
The next
important place you have to stop at is Shanty Town on a road 4kms out
of Paroa just south of Greymouth. It is set up for tourists but is
still very interesting and recommended for a visit. next stop Westport.
So we have
just driven the full West Coast from Haast to Westport. This is where
you
can turn back toward Nelson or go a bit further
to th Karamea area. Time will tell.
If you need
to get in touch with Ron or Paula
(or Sylvester and Chocolate):
© Copyright
2005
Ron Laughlin - All rights reserved
