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The West Coast - Haast to Greymouth
Information:
  
Haast Pass through to Haast Beach
Haast – North
up the West Coast to Greymouth
The
Whitebaiters Ball if you are there in September/October is the place to
be. All the locals will be there and enjoying an evening of West Coast
hospitality. This is white bait heaven in South Westland where every
river has its banks lined this time of year with hardy folks with nets
doing their best to fill them with the whitebait (to non-Kiwis it is a
small fish considered a supreme delicacy) arriving from the ocean and
heading up the many rivers. Be sure to try a whitebait sandwich.If you
take the road to Jackson’s Bay you will see some of the most elaborate
huts and traps along the rivers you can imagine.
Heading
north out of Hasst and up the West Coast on Route 6 you turn inland
through swamp and rain forest with glimpses of the Tasman Sea here and
there. It is more beautiful than it sounds. A very special place
indeed. Sixteen kilometres along at the Waitai River there is a large
parking area as well as parking along Ship Creek. At this point the
road starts up a hill where you will have a good outlook of the
coastline. There are good pullover spots for photos. Another ten
kilometres is Knights Point Lookout and the first place to really stop
and enjoy the wild coastline of the area. Plenty of room to park with a
viewing platform and toilets. Commercial in appearance but still allows
one to enjoy a spectacular view. From here the road heads inland. Five
kilometres along is Lake Moeraki. Several good pull off locations to
stop and enjoy the view. Good pull offs after Boulder Creek and Cedar
Creek. 18 kilometres along is a good place to stay at the DoC Camp on
Lake Paringa. Beautiful lake where if you got a chance to cast a line
for trout do so. Mt. Kinnaird at 1227 metres overlooks the area. 10
kilometers you find a salmon farm located at the edge of the Paringa
River. You might want to see the gigantic salmon swimming in the round
pools overlooked from the café. On past is a good stopping spot
at
Doughboy Creek and a picnic spot on the Mahitahi River also. From this
inland route now you head back toward the ocean at Bruce Bay (14 kms).
A small community is located there and a great pull off area along the
ocean. I remember my first experience with sand flies here in ’89. If
you trod the beach be sure you have repellant. That’s true for the
entire West Coast actually. You wonder why these fabulous beaches
aren’t covered with condos?
 
On through
Jacobs River where there is a place to park or picnic and across the
Karangarua River (21 kms from Bruce Bay). Here is one of the most well
known DoC tracks. Copland Track on the right. Take the short road to
the right to have a read about the place. If you are into tramping
check this out before you get here and make arrangements with DoC.
There is a toilet provided. From here you enter flat farm land for the
next 27 kms to Fox Glacier. A short gravel road to the right takes you
to Fox Glacier parking area where a very short walk gains you access to
the glacier for a closeup look. The town of Fox Glacier is just a short
hop up the road north. Good coffee and food served at the Plateau
Café
& Bar in town. The best place on the coast to see the Southern Alps
is down the Cooks Flat Road that ends up at Gillespies Beach. At the
end of the hard top road before the gravel there is a stopping spot
with the best view period if the weather permits. This is on past the
turnoff to Lake Matheson also a place not to miss. If the weather is
right do the walk around the lake. Worth the time and a very easy walk.
Get a photo at the View of Views the one in all post cards of the area.
Gillespies is 11 kms down the gravel road but is interesting for its
history and offers a place to park.
 
After the
exploration of this area lets head north for
23kms to the town of Franz Josef Glacier. Just before entering the main
part of town to the right is a road just over the river that will take
you to the foot of Franz Josef Glacier. This is a must. How many times
in your life do you get to be that close to a glacier? You may want to
take advantage of the many activities in the area such as a walk on the
glacier, etc. From here on north where we encounter 16 kms of steep
winding road. Be sure to check your vehicle’s water before going on
this trip. Spectacular views from the heights though of the Waiho River
and the many mountain peaks inland. Several good pull offs for photos
and views. Many creeks are crossed with names probably of the early
miners such as Kiwi Jack and Smithy’s Creek. Westland National Park
lies between the road and the ocean. Lake Mapourika is on the left with
a couple of good spots to park. Toilet available here and picnic
tables. North end of lake is a giant parking area. Worth going out of
Franz Josef this short distance to stop. You also will pass Lake Wahapo
with also a place to pull off.
From Franz Josef
it is 30kms to Hokitika. Ten kms the road levels out and you will be
driving in a vast valley of farm land still going inland. 12km s you
come to the small community of Whataroa. There you will find one of the
most amazing Maori carvers and museum of Maori artifacts. It is hard to
believe in this far out place in the middle of nowhere. Don’t miss this
one the Kotuku Gallery. Five more kms on the Whataroa River on the
right you will find a local has created an interesting place known as a
Tourist Recreation Area. If you got the time check it out. It is
different. Now it’s a climb up Mt. Hercules providing a view over the
land to the sea on the left with the Southern Alps still dominating the
inland area. After the climb the drive eases off to return to an easy
flat valley between montains and the town of Hari Hari. (14kms) A very
large Wapiti(elk) herd just before entering the town. There is a long
one way bridge after Hari Hari. Eighteen kms is Lake Ianthe. There is a
1000 year old giant matai tree on the right just before the lake. You
are now in the middle of the rain forest as never before. What an area
the West Coast where rain forest, glaciers and the ocean are all
together unlike any other place in the world. There is a good stop at
Lake Ianthe and they provide a toilet. Six more kilometres is one of
the most fascinating stops in New Zealand the town of two people,
Pukekura, where Possum Pete and partner offers great hospitality at the
bar, restaurant, café and provide a true West Coast museum with
the
live animals and a film on the early deer hunting days. This is a must
stop. They also provide hookups and a few accommodations. We never pass
this by without stopping.
Eighteen more
kms through the bush and you are back along the ocean for a brief
moment then on to the gold town of Ross. Stop and have a look at what
they have provided for those interested in the early gold mining days.
Grab some of the delicious local West Coast honey from the Waitani
Apiaries in the centre of the town. Finally 20 kilometres on we come
back to the ocean after Ruatapu. You can see the dominate wind force by
the tortured trees and bush along. One of the best DoC camps on the
right to stop is Lake Mahinapua. Plenty of space. Not too far now to
Hokitika one of our favourite towns on the West Coast for artists and
craftsmen. Be sure to stop by. Good parking on the ocean right in town.
Good cafes and top shops for jade, and other fine works of talented
craftsmen. The Shining Star Motor Camp on the north edge of town is our
choice to stay. Out of town 6 kms north is one of the handiest dump
spots on the left also.
Along the way
north you can see the sphagnum moss businesses. Quite different. A side
trip inland if you got the time is a trip to Lake Kiniere. A couple of
stopping spots available. From Hokitika to Greymouth the ocean is
clearly visible but with no access. You will travel over a one way
bridge that is used by both car and train. North of Hokitika 25 kms at
Kumara Junction is the entry of Route 73 the road to Arthurs Pass.
Eighteen kms to Greymouth. Another train/car one way bridge over the
Taramakau River by the Hungry Trout Bar.
The next
important place you have to stop at is Shanty Town on a road 4kms out
of Paroa just south of Greymouth. It is set up for tourists but is
still very interesting and recommended for a visit.
If you need to
get in touch with Ron or Paula
(or Sylvester and Chocolate):
© Copyright
2005
Ron Laughlin - All rights reserved
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